Friday, August 7, 2015

Riedel: Plenty of Glasses, Not Enough Humor

One of my favorite wine writers is the HoseMaster of Wine. Skewering all comers with puns and fantastic plays on words, he has great insight into the world of wine and amuses me regularly. Satire and sarcasm drip from his virtual pen and no sane person would confuse these posts with actual reporting. A guest post on Tim Atkin's site poking fun of Georg Riedel and his company's insane devotion to specificity and diversity in the glassware they produce. Apparently, Mr. Riedel did not find the post funny and his legal team has delivered a threatening note to HoseMaster. How you can't find humor in someone poking fun at you when you produce 20 different cabernet/Bordeaux glasses and sell single stems for more than $150, is completely beyond me.
I have spent my time around wine helping people relax and enjoy wine while Riedel has expanded their selection exponentially, adding a level of pomposity that wine does not need. Add in the price and their propensity to shatter and it's easy to see why I no longer buy the glasses. Drink out of a tumbler, or a jelly glass or even straight out of the bottle but you don't need a varietally specific glass to enjoy the variety. Everyone likes a fine glass now and again but you can find similar products from other companies for much less money than Riedel.
I've often wondered if a serious glare would break Riedel glasses but now I wonder if a loud laugh might...Apparently they're safe in Georg's house since he seems to lack a sense of humor.

Thursday, July 23, 2015

NxNW: Good Wine, Amazing Label

At first glance, it's not a particularly eye-catching label, in fact, it almost looked like the back label had mistakenly been placed on the front. Further inspection showed that the label has more information than I had ever seen on a bottle. I hoped my reaction to the liquid inside lived up to my excitement about the details on the outside.

The bottle came to my family this summer as a gift from my cousin's boyfriend and we meant to open it while he was here but it got lost in the crowded, delightful mayhem that is our Fourth of July. It took me less than a day after returning to Maine to twist the cap and dispense the contents. 
A hint of sweet wood on the nose led to deep red and black fruits on the nose and palate. The black fruit was more dominant but didn't overwhelm the red. In fact, as the wine opened up, warm raspberries emerged on the nose. Tannin was evident, as you would expect with a cabernet sauvignon blend, but the overall impression was a great balance between lushness and firmness. The finish featured lovely notes of violets and made me want more. I hate to trot out the old "iron fist in a velvet glove" description (often used for Volnay) and it's a bit grandiose for this wine (perhaps) but it does give an adequate impression of the style. The tannins gently remind you that the wine wants food. It's kind of like a well-behaved, hungry child on a road trip...persistent but not difficult or whiny. I was happy to have a glass, grateful for the gift and interested in more!
[Note: There are at least two different versions of this wine produced from the same vintage. My bottle blend and information (pictured above) is different than the website image. Both versions might be enjoyable but I think you should be aware, just in case. More on this later.]
The wine is very good, but it's the label that really prompted me to write this. Kudos to King Estate for this innovative packaging idea. The amount of information that is provided is almost overwhelming, especially when you compare it to the dearth of detail on all too many wine bottles. They identify the vineyards, soils, blend, process and aging. Whether or not you think this is great or confusing, one should always appreciate the business that openly displays their methods. Fast food corporations would never share as much, nor would bulk wine producers. However, even high end producers don't offer all this information on the label. I applaud the effort and hope lots of other people do as well.
The information shared is less important when you produce from the same vineyard and same grapes every year but when one vintage produces two very different wines (that could legally have exactly the same label), it is nice to see the details. Too many consumers find out the hard way that the blend and sourcing changed mid-vintage when they don't like a wine as much as they did a few months ago. The percentage of merlot moved from 17 to 10 percent and one had malbec, while the other did not. 
Again, bravo to King Estate! Thank you. When you're proud of something it makes it easy to tell people about the ingredients and the sourcing. This bottle is clearly one to brag about.

Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Amazing New Website!

While you can find winery addresses and pull them up on a map, finding specific vineyards has been a larger challenge. Maps of AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) are readily available but usually at sites focused on that region exclusively. Everyvine is an exciting tool and I would like to take you on a brief tour. Here is the link:
There is a new website featuring maps of wineries, vineyards and AVAs that is free to browse and you can even embed the maps on your website, if you choose (this can cost money). You will find only domestic wines represented but Oregon and Washington are included with California. Surprisingly, and impressively, they include West Elks region of Colorado. I would love to see them include Missouri, Virginia, Indiana and Texas (among others) as well but they are off to a good start.
Being able to zoom in and out (simply scroll within the map) on a region and toggle between a map and satellite view is amazing! Here is a map of the Willamette Valley. You can get a real picture of where the wine regions sit in relation to cities (often not included in wine-centric maps) and then you can get a glimpse of the topographical situation to help understand things. All while the region remains delineated on your screen. This is the most exciting aspect of the website to my mind.
You don't need everyvine to find a winery, finding an address and pulling it up on a map is easy. However, the vineyards are not always located next to the winery itself and it can be quite a challenge to find them on a virtual map. Everyvine does it for you, again with marked boundaries. I found the vineyard search option a bit confusing but they do appear to still be in beta, so perhaps some bugs will get corrected. When you find a vineyard, you need to click the name to get to the map. Here is the famous Shea Vineyard in Willamette Valley.
They have maps for sale as well, be sure to check out the options. This website is a wine geek's dream come true(!) and I hope they are wildly successful, eventually bringing us the entire globe.

Monday, June 15, 2015

Rettig Hill Grand Rouge - Mini Vertical

Vertical tastings, multiple vintages of the same wine, might just be my favorite way to learn about a winery. You can see vintage variation and even watch the evolution of a style. Unfortunately, I had only two vintages of this wine - as mini a vertical as you can get. However, I learned quite a few things and look forward to an opportunity to visit the winery in person.

Two years ago I attended Vintage Indiana and bought a number of bottles that impressed me. (You can see that post here). These are my last bottles from that event but I wish I had more.

When I find wines labeled estate grown anywhere, I am interested. When those wineries are located in places not California, Oregon or Washington, my inner geek gets very excited. Importing grape juice from California and bottling it in, for example, Indiana does not do anything for me. Every so often, one of those wines will be worth drinking at something close to the retail price but those instances are few and far between.
My admiration and appreciation of the dedication required to make these sorts of wine sometimes causes me to gloss over minor flaws. I freely admit to being a cheerleader for these efforts but also try to share my honest opinions.
Rettig Hill is run by Jeff Hill, an Indianapolis native who got involved in winemaking after a trip to Australia. Located in southeastern Indiana, in a town called Osgood, Rettig is producing some exciting wines but might fly below the radar, even for locals, because they are only open by appointment. If you're nervous about being expected to buy and not finding good wine, relax. If you appreciate dry wines, you'll be happy.
The Grand Rouge bottles were from 2010 and 2011. The blends were much different and so were the wines. I can not claim any great depth of knowledge about Indiana vintages so I must attribute the majority of the differences to the blend.
First, we should talk about the grapes involved: norton, villard noir and chambourcin. The first and last are fairly well known in domestic locales other than the west coast. The middle one used to be widely planted in France but I had never encountered the grape before. You can read more about the grapes on Rettig's website under "Our Grapes" (reprints of Wikipedia pages) and also a short post I wrote about norton here or in the Tastings From "Other" States section of my site.

2010 - 61% villard noir, 39% norton
There is a color change at the edge, not quite orange (a sign of more age) but clearly no longer ruby red. I smell brick, wet stone, earth and red fruit with a hint of some darker fruit and meat in the background. The palate is slightly sappy, very textural, and the wine is tasty enough. It is a bit too primary for waxing philosophical but enjoyable nonetheless. I find a hint of "pinot noir-ness" about the wine (which is hard to pin down) that is persistent. On the second day the wine tasted a little dirty and the oak became much more noticeable. There was a clear wood presence but no sweet vanilla aroma or flavor. The nose also faded. The wine was soft and easy the next day but much less interesting. Overall, a solid effort and probably at the peak of drinkability...go ahead and finish it all in one sitting if you have any.

2011 - 50% norton, 37% villard noir and 13% chambourcin
A lighter edge was visible here as well but the core was much darker. The nose was sweeter and darker and deeper and there was more texture on the front end but less of a middle. I found the same, elusive "pinot-ness" in this bottle - sorry I can't describe it better than that. On the finish a pronounced note of clay reminded me of merlot grown in Bordeaux, specifically Pomerol and St. Emilion. Vanilla does show up here on the nose. Blackberry appears as well but does not carry through on the finish. It was clearly a bigger, richer, wine than the 2010, even taking into account the difference in age. There is a delightful plummy note that carried through into the second day. The wine remained delicious, lush and pretty with the clay note continuing as well. I think the increased norton percentage made a big difference and I look forward to tasting some new vintages.

I plan on visiting soon. If you do too, be sure to reach out before you go. Use the "Contact Us" page on their website. Happy tasting, I would love to hear your reactions...

Thursday, May 21, 2015

Pay to Play

In the adult beverage world there is significant volume created through bribes. We all like to think that the beer, wine and liquor offered in our favorite bars, restaurants and retail shops are available due to their merits and am exacting selection process by the owners/staff. This is certainly true of many establishments but those with lesser standards often accept cash/trade to promote certain brands.
This practice is illegal. [If you're interested, you can read the actual wording from the Federal Alcohol Administration Act (p. 145) at the bottom of this post, I won't bore you here.] However, there is little motivation, or ability, to stop it.
Few announce the payoff loudly but most do not hide their willingness to play. I have been shaken down on numerous occasions, even in front of other sales reps in the wine section of a grocery store. "I love that wine and we'd be happy to feature it but you'll have to write us a check." Part of the payment would have gone to print the circulars where our wine(s) would be advertised. The rest was a flat out bribe. We did business with this company but never got displays or ads.
In restaurants the payola scheme guarantees a glass pour, the highest profile (and volume) option.
On the beer side, the pay to play involves draft taps, again highly visible and big volume. Sometimes a large company will simply pay enough to get a dedicated tap (or three). This gives them the decision-making power to choose what beer is available on that tap. They can then place whatever swill they need to move to reach their goals.
No small wineries or local brewers can afford to play this game, the advantage belongs to the large producers and wholesalers. Consumers have less choice and smaller players are squeezed to the margins. Short of eavesdropping on all holders of liquor licenses and solicitors permits there is little that can be done. The problem is widespread but single instances hardly merit the effort required to prevent/punish these illegal acts.
What's the big deal?, you might ask. Not everyone participates and people can still choose to ignore the more generic beverages in favor of more diverse selections. However, there is damage being done to the consuming public every day. The effects are subtle and easy to overlook. Turn your attention to chain restaurants for the best example.
No, I am not accusing all of them of pursuing pay for play - though I can attest to the insane discounts that are required to get wines placed on lists, by the glass or not. What happens, slowly and insidiously, is that as less diversity remains, the power of familiarity becomes stronger. Consumers, often intimidated by wine (and now by the huge selection of beer and spirits as well), stick with the ones they know. Familiar labels are rarely esoteric or "indie" and their ubiquity leads to more orders and, consequently, to less support for lesser-known labels.
If you doubt my premise, go drive around an area with lots of chain restaurants. Count the number of independent, local establishments. I rest my case.
Though it is impossible to determine whether any given bar, restaurant or retailer is playing the payola game, try to support those that rotate their featured beverages with labels not seen stacked in the grocery store or viewed in ads on TV.

"It is unlawful for an industry member, directly or indirectly or through an affiliate, to induce a trade buyer to purchase the industry member's products, to the complete or partial exclusion of products sold or offered for sale by other persons in interstate or foreign commerce, by offering or giving a bonus, premium, compensation, or other thing of value to any officer, employee, or representative of the trade buyer. The bonus, premium, compensation, or other thing of value need not be offered or given for the purpose of directly inducing a trade buyer to purchase from the seller, but rather is applicable if an industry member induces officers, employees or representatives of the trade buyer to promote sales of the industry member's products and thereby indirectly induces the trade buyer to purchase from the industry member."

Thursday, April 30, 2015

Prime Time Wine

Wine counterfeiting has hit a tipping point. Fox's series Backstrom hatched an entire plot around it. Rarely does wine, real or not, get this much air time and it's worth a closer look. The episode, called "Corkscrewed" can be found here.
They refer to "collector-grade wine," which made me grin because it sounds like a reference to illegal drugs, somehow making the crime more heinous. Rainn Wilson suspects, early on, something isn't exactly kosher, "How many old ladies with precious unopened bottles of wine can you possibly track down in a month? One?" He says the bottles are stolen, and then utters these words in the most menacing way they have even been uttered: "So where are you getting your wine?"
Only a minute or so later, he says "Take me to your vineyard guys," which is what I think aliens would really ask for if they knew anything about the earth before landing. No one should want to meet with leaders right away, much better to have a drink first.
The wine dealers, "keep the whole place regulated to the cellar standard of 59 degrees, it's good for the wine." There was a place in Portland, OR (the city where Backstrom takes place), that kept their shop at cellar temperature but they had a huge selection, unlike the dealers in the episode. The temperature was also their undoing in Backstrom due to condensation on the wrong side of a glass door. That room had, among other things, "Red dust, used as sediment. You won't find that in a week-old box of wine." Labels hanging were too washed out by a flashlight to read, except for one, Romanée-Conti. Their high-profile, luxury status makes them a consistent target for counterfeiters. Even their website landing page has a disclaimer, discussion of fraud!
The "brilliant sommelier" at Portland Governors Club (the recipient of the counterfeit wine) refers to a bottle as, "Romaneé-Conti Pinot 2005." He should know better with, "degrees from Yale, the Culinary Institute of America and a sommelier certification from the Court of Master Sommeliers." The wine should be vineyard-designated, the winery doesn't make a generic "Pinot Noir." But then again, he later states, "They love what I tell them to." Clearly not a role model for the position. They get some credit for getting the grape right. 
As to why on one knows it's fake wine? "For one, the wine is too valuable to open. And when it is, without anything to compare it to, very few people can tell the difference between a decent one and the most exclusive wines on the planet." This is certainly true, to some degree, but using "cheap red wine" in the bottles would give the hoax away very quickly. Apparently, in this show, "They mix different wines together and add a non-fermentable sugar to improve the taste. It's very effective."
Don't worry wine and food fans, cheese was not overlooked. The stomach contents of the murder victim held crackers and "Havarti cheese." Backstrom then finds, "a fancy cheese shop paper" in his trash. Who would go to a "fancy cheese shop" to buy Havarti? For that matter, what "fancy cheese shop" even carries Havarti? Couldn't they have just mentioned Brie instead? These are the moments where I feel my services could be used as a consultant for Hollywood when it comes to wine and food. It amazes me someone on the set doesn't know enough to point out the awkward choices.
Later, when Backstrom is drinking on the job (as usual) another detective observes, "That's a $150,000 bottle of fake wine, sir." They then all taste it. "Oh wow, that's good." "That's impressive." And, finally, after spitting it out in disgust, "Anyone fooled by this should just kill themselves." 
The highlight featured a return to Portland Governors Club, and Backstrom treating some of the membership on hand to a tasting. He asks for a side by side tasting of "the best you've got" and is told that "such a tasting would run in excess of $250,000." The dollar amounts are completely ridiculous by the way. A wine purported to come from Thomas Jefferson's cellar (a 1787 Lafite) sold for just over $150,000, these are not that old. The wines arrive, "a 2005 Romanée-Conti Pinot Noir...and a 1945 Chateau Mouton Rothschild and a '47 Chateau de Fleur [sic]." Rainn over enunciates the last one, amusingly so, and it later turns out it is Lafleur, according to a normal pronunciation by one taster. The sommelier responds after Rainn orders them, "You are truly an aficionado." They did pick some impressive wines. 
Disappointingly, the wine glasses are pretty cheap looking but the tasting has some highlights. One taster spits it out, "I had a bottle of the same wine in Italy last week, and it tasted a lot better than that." The sommelier stammers, "It could be that the cork has been compromised." Someone observes, "I distinctly taste some brandy." (Hmmm, that wasn't in the formula discussed earlier). The bottles are conveniently located in a glass case, standing up, behind the bar rather than in a cellar. They are not decanted. I'm sure this is expedient from a story-telling standpoint but it is amusing in light of the earlier, exacting cellar-temperature comment. 
It was a fun episode, I enjoy the show even when it doesn't focus on wine. Rainn Wilson's character is flawed and brilliant and a very interesting antihero, which probably means the show won't last. I hope it does. 
Oh, while the sommelier makes a run for it, breaking glasses (maybe that's why they were cheap?) and knocking bottles over, Backstrom pours himself another glass. Think I'll go do the same.

Saturday, April 25, 2015

Crawfish Boil: Wine or Beer?

My default recommendation to anyone inquiring was, "Try riesling with that crawfish boil, if you must have wine." I had actually done this, though I usually defaulted to beer, like just about everyone else. However, last weekend an opportunity presented itself and I decided to experiment. I arrived to his crawfish boil
with three bottles of riesling and an albariño. 

They were not expensive, ranging in price from $9 to $14. It seemed silly to spend more for two reasons: 1) the spicy nature of the boil (getting spicier as each batch came out - no water change) meant I would likely be gulping rather than sipping and 2) more expensive wines are often more complex and it seemed to me that simple would be better since the flavor of the boil was so complex already (I like contrasting intense flavors and complementing subtle ones).
Overall, I think riesling is a good choice but you need to be careful which one you choose. Albariño, to my delight, worked surprisingly well but was overwhelmed. Beer is so ubiquitous at crawfish boils that it will be hard to unseat despite the fact that the bubbles in beer perk up you tongue and palate actually making taste receptors more susceptible to heat on the next bite. Some say alcohol works in a similar fashion, so wine may not be the best option either, though riesling is lower in alcohol than many other wines - more on this later.

Here are the specifics:

1) Kung Fu Girl Riesling, Columbia Valley, Washington 2014  $12

I have enjoyed this wine in the past and this was a good example but turned out to be too rich for the crawfish. It was fairly viscous and had a moderate sweetness about it. Not sugary but just too much weight for an ideal match. This is good backporch, pool, richer-fish-dish wine.

2) Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley, Washington 2013  $9

Be aware, this winery makes a lot of riesling, including some at this same price point that have similar labels. Select carefully. They are kind enough to put a scale on the back showing the degree of sweetness in the bottle (thank you Ste Michelle!). This was lighter and worked much better with the boil. It also beautifully displayed what I love about Columbia Valley riesling - there is a fullness in the mouth, some tropical fruit and even subtle minerality that I have never found in California riesling. (Side note: Oregon has less weight and exotic fruit but more minerality...and a higher price tag than Columbia Valley riesling). 

3) Clean Slate Riesling, Mosel, Germany 2013  $9, Imported by Winebow
Mosel rieslings are my Holy Grail. They are bursting with energy and seem to always have plenty of acidity to carry their sweetness. This is not sugary sweetness here, but it would never be confused with sauvignon blanc. At the risk of being overly simplistic, the wine is clean...and well named! The lime blossom nose and delicate, but not wimpy, palate made this the clear winner for me and the three others who tried it. Perhaps the lower alcohol (10.5% vs 12% and 12.5%) compared the other rieslings helped. Winner, and a perfect example to try at your next crawfish boil. If you don't like this with crawfish, stick to beer. Best of all, it costs less than $10!

4) Martin Codax, Burgans Albariño, Rias Baixas, Spain 2013  $14, 
    Imported by European Cellars
A control wine seemed important. Albariño comes from Galicia in northwest Spain and offers a brilliant mix of citrus and tropical fruits while offering a substantial wine with medium weight and a dry finish, but no tartness. This is one of my favorites and it did not disappoint. It is a perfect summer wine and pairs well with sushi, lighter fish and even fruit (which can be a challenge). However, the crawfish boil flavors simply rolled right over it. The pairing went well enough in that the wine did not interfere with the taste of the crawfish but it didn't add anything either. As the most expensive wine in the tasting (still very reasonably priced) there is no reason to select this for your next boil. Do try a bottle though...your mouth will thank you.

Don't be afraid to bring wine to a crawfish boil. I still recommend riesling but would try to get drier versions with less alcohol. This is not always an easy task, since sugar is converted into alcohol. More sugar means less alcohol but also means more sweetness. Less sugar, i.e. dryness, means more alcohol. Germany, due to the chilly climate often has lower potential alcohol (less sugar to begin with) and can create drier wines that also have lower residual sugar levels. 
There are lots of rieslings out there, try your own experiment. Let me know your favorites for crawfish or other spicy foods...I'm always looking for new choices.